Monday, September 1, 2014

Camouflage Beanie

When I was going through my yarn stash, I noticed that I had a few skeins of Red Heart camouflage medium worsted yarn with no planned future project. With a chill in the air and a need to clear some space in my yarn holding area, I decided to whip up some camouflage beanies for my boys. You can see how stylin' they are in their new beanies. Over the weekend I easily made three, so you can easily churn these bad boys out.

I made three different sizes, but before I go over the sizes I must warn you that large noggins run in my family. When I buy hats, the one-size-fits-most hats do not fit; they're too small. My youngest child (7 years old) wears the small size. My oldest son (10 years old) wears the normal size hat that would fit most teenagers and adults. I wear the large size, which is about a size hat 7 1/2. Each hat stretches to accommodate multiple hat sizes.

This project uses a magic ring to start off with to provide a tighter starting ring. Heidi Bears provides a nice magic ring tutorial with step-by-step photos. It takes a little practice to get the hang of it, but once you learn how to do a crochet magic ring you will want to use it to provide a more polished, professional look to your projects.

A stitch I use in this project is the front post double crochet stitch, which is considered a more advanced stitch for beginning crocheters. If you know how to do a double crochet, you can easily master the front post double crochet stitch. The only difference between the two stitches is where you insert your hook in the bottom stitch to yo the yarn from. Fiber Flux provides a good photo tutorial on how to make the front post double crochet stitch. This stitch provides a ribbed effect that can give crochet a knitted look.

Abbreviations:
dc - double crochet
fpdc - front post double crochet
sc - single crochet
sl st - slip stitch

Materials:
H hook
Medium worsted yarn

Notes:
The hat is worked in rounds from top down.
Pattern uses US terms

1st round: Start with a magic ring. Chain 1, 10 sc into the magic ring, sl st to top of beginning ch to join (10 sts)
2nd round: Chain 1, *2 sc into next sc*, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of beginning ch to join (20 sts)
3rd round: Chain 1, *sc into next sc, 2 sc into next stitch *, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of beginning ch to join (30 sts)
4th round: Chain 2, *fpdc into the next 3 sc, dc into top of same st of last fpdc*, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (40 sts)
5th round: Chain 2, fpdc into fpdc with sl st, fpdc into the next 2 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st, *fpdc into the next 3 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st*,  repeat from * to *, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (50 sts)
6th round: Chain 2, fpdc into fpdc with sl st, fpdc into the next 3 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st, *fpdc into the next 4 fpdc, fpdc into dc dc into top of same st*, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (60 sts)

(Note: For smaller noggins skip the 7th round to keep your stitch count at 60 for the remainder of the pattern)

7th round: Chain 2, fpdc into fpdc with sl st, fpdc into the next  4 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st, *fpdc into the next 5 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st*, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (70 sts)

(Note: For large noggins such as mine add this round which will increase your stitch count to 80. Chain 2, fpdc into fpdc with sl st, fpdc the next 5 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st, *fpdc in the next 6 fpdc, fpdc into dc, dc into top of same st*, repeat from *to*, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (80 sts))

8th round: Chain 2, fpdc into fpdc with sl st, fpdc into the next 4 fpdc, fpdc into dc, *fpdc into the next 5 fpdc, fpdc into dc*, repeat from * to *, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (70 sts)
9th round: Chain 2, fpdc into each fpdc, sl st to top of first fpdc in round to join (70 sts)
Repeat round 9 until you've reached desired length which would be around the 20 to 22 round mark.

Border

Once you reached the desired length, chain one, turn the hat wrong side out and turn, sc into the top of each fpdc, sl st to top of first sc in round to join (70 sts)
Next round, chain one, sc into the top of each st, sl st to top of first sc in round to join (70 sts)

Chain 1, turn hat right side out and turn, sc in top of each sc, sl st to top of first sc in round to join, finish and weave in ends.

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